"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Ollason Peak - Toro Regional Park

Last weekend, my spouse and I had quite an adventure - and I'm not just referring to hiking with two misbehaving dogs.

Every time we go to Toro Regional Park outside Salinas, we get lost. Never fails. The first time was the first time I tried to make it to Seamas Peak and came across a locked gate along Cougar Ridge, had to double back and try going up Gibson Gap in the heat and ran out of water. The second time was trying to find the cave run trail, which was not marked at all. This time, it was after we took the Black Mountain Trail and ended up in some farmer's pasture instead of back at the parking lot, had to jump a fence, and call someone to pick us up in the back of some ritzy neighborhood. But, that was towards the end of our hike.

The day started early, with one of our younger dogs and a friend's shepherd mix heading up to Ollason Trail. At first it followed a dried up creek bed, then we had to go through some cattle gates. There were a couple places where the trail diverged, and there were no markers to say which way to go - but thankfully some local mountain bikers came by and told us which way to go. The only real difficult pitch on the way up to Ollason Peak was just after it crisscrossed with Gilson Gap. Just a quarter mile from the peak, we noticed a canine type creature between a couple oak trees. It was taller but skinnier than the Shepherd Mix we had with us, and had big pointy ears. Coyote? If I didn't know that we don't have wolves in California, I would have sworn it was a wolf.

Finally, we reached Ollason Peak (1800 ft) by noon, and took a short break and some pictures. We could see all the way from Santa Cruz to Lover's Point in Pacific Grove, and out over the Pacific. The only thing detracting from the beauty was the stinky cow patties atop the grassy hill top. Yuck!

Then, it was time to try to make it to Seamas Peak. First, we had to descend a steep hill side with loose silt to a saddle point where Coyote Spring Trail intersects with Ollason Loop. Then, we saw the awful pitch we had to go up to make it to Seamas Peak. By the way, hiking on slippery terrain with a dog is a real pain in the @$$. Mostly because, at the worst possible moment our dogs would want to lounge one way or the other and almost knock us off balance. Not that we'd fall to our deaths, but we would probably get really scratched up and be in major pain AND THEN have to hike 6 miles out of there. Not my idea of fun. Halfway up the really awful pitch to the Seamas Peak Trail, I had to sit down and collect myself, but then it was just that much harder to get back up. Eventually I did, and really, I thought this awful patch would just go on forever and ever, but it was less than 100m long. After that, it was a real gentle rise and fall until we reached Valley View.

There, we could see all the way down the Salinas valley, from the Ocean to King City. Amazing! 2030 ft in the air. We also thought we had reached Seamas Peak, but as it turns out we were ~.25-.5 miles away from Seamas Peak - not to mention the steep ascents and descents we'd have to make in between to get there. My hips hurt so bad, so we decided to bag it and head home and try to reach it another day. So, we went down the Black Mountain Trail, which was clearly marked at the beginning, but it was heavily forested, thick brush, and tons and tons of false trails which eventually lead us out into someone's cow pasture.

We hiked from 8 AM until 5 PM, and didn't get to summit Seamas Peak nor did we even end back up in the right place. But, at least we got to summit something - Ollason Peak - and we learned more about the trails that lead up to Seamas. I'll get there eventually.

The Black Mountain trail was really cool, but it sucked getting lost, and that there were several places that the trail diverged with no markings. How were we supposed to know which way to go if the entire trial is not even on the map? Gah!

Sunday, November 4, 2012

Soberanes - Rocky Ridge Loop

Yesterday, I was able to cross of the Soberanes - Rocky Ridge Loop off of my bucket list. I had attempted it before, but my husband and I were so busy taking pictures that we barely got half way up Soberanes Canyon before we ran out of time and had to turn around. Yesterday, we started our endeavor at 8:30 AM and didn't have to be anywhere that evening.

Walking through Soberanes Canyon made us feel like we were walking through another time or another world. Much of the towering redwoods with carved out trunks that crisscrossed the Soberanes Creek looked like scenes out of The Lord of the Rings while they were trying to escape the black horseman of Mordor. I love the smell of Redwoods, and the sounds of the creek.

We passed a signpost that didn't have any actual wording on it, other than graffiti that said something like "save yourself." Although, otherwise ominous I figured it just meant that some out of shape hiker, like myself, was remarking on how strenuous the hike was going to be. I already realized this was supposed to be a "butt kicker" and that the state has abandoned maintaining the back country trail, so we pressed on. Thank GOD I brought my trekking poles, and there was one place through the redwoods where my husband had to boost my  pack up so I could make it up a heavily eroded part of the trail that had exposed tree roots from where the rain washed out the dirt all around it. After we got passed the shade line, the flora changed from redwoods and lupines to maritime chaparral with no trees shading the trail. At least I had a hat!

There is a reason the trail connecting Rocky Ridge and Soberanes is closed! Mostly, it is because there has been zero maintenance done, and it is heavily heavily eroded. Lots of loose rock,  and a fine silt of sandstone over harder sandstone which is then very very slippery. We basically had to make baby steps through most of the climb to avoid slipping backwards. There were several wide hard exposed faces with deeper caverns washed out where the steps used to be. We struggled with this short part of the trail for about two hours, even though it was only a mile long at the most.

After reaching the summit, all bad memories of the struggle to get there evaporated. My GOD what a view! We could see all the way to the Salinas Valley behind us, the Monterey Bay and Santa Cruz mountains to the north of us, and Carmel Bay, Point Lobos, closer to us to the north and all way way down the beautiful Big Sur Coast. The view took my breath away, and I felt like I was dancing on top of the world.

Eventually we had to leave Nirvana, and head down Rocky Ridge. I'm glad we were able to walk down towards the ocean on this trail, because otherwise there isn't much to see and it would be a whole lot of punishing climbs what looked like a never ending rock. Never could I have imagined how glorious the top was going to be, and I probably would have given up. Going down Rocky Ridge was no bargain either. More slippery silt, and loose rock that would easily twist an ankle, and even my husband was having a hard time with it. Yet, we saw people trail running down the trail - they must have better balance and more experience with the trail than us because there was no WAY we could do that.

All and all, I am so grateful we were able to make the trip. Not for the faint of heart, and maybe next time we go we'll add the Peak Trail to our excursion. We'll have to leave earlier, and not stop to take so many pictures.

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Trail highlights

While climbing up the connecting trail, we saw a deer acting as sentinel looking down the canyon. She was only there for a moment, saw all of the hikers and then disappeared back into the chaparral.

Lots and lots of turkey vultures, and we thought we may have seen a baby condor because it had white underneath the shoulders but it was way way too small to be an adult condor.

Red tailed hawks circling the redwoods. We could only see them from above looking back at Soberanes Canyon.

Hearing sea lions below while on the top of Rocky Ridge.

The bench overlooking the ocean on Rockey Ridge trail. you have to climb over a rock formation to get to it, and keep from tossing anything down the front of it by accident. 



Monday, October 29, 2012

Through Hiking Ft Ord

For months I've been dreaming of through hiking across the Ft Ord National Monument, and today I finally did it!

My dog and I headed out at 8:00 across Parker Flats Rd, which was beautiful just an hour after dawn. Gossamer spider webs collected dew which glimmered in the morning sun. The hills were alive with the sound of rustling deer, calling quail, and soaring hawks.

Then we turned down Eucalyptus Rd, and followed that through several cattle gates until it became Jacks Rd out past Barlow Canyon. We finally came across a pool out in Ft Ord, that looked pretty mucky since it was mostly dried up. There were still a few mallards and other species of fowl, but we didn't spot any egrets or herons.

Then, came our first major hill. It wasn't too bad, but we stopped half way up so Maggie could finally get some ice water, and I could have a cool drink. It was about 11:30, and we had already covered about five miles in 3.5 hrs. There were plenty of game trails that ran from the tops of the mountains down to the pool, since I think this is their only reliable water source.

After about ten minutes, we decided to press onward up the hill, until finally we came to the top near Pilaricitos Ridge was off to the  northwest, and Lookout Ridge was off to southeast. From there, we could see Mt Toro, ahead of us, and the ocean behind us, and a small canyon in front of us until we had to climb our next hill. At this point, I felt truly on top of the world and wasn't tired at all.

We took off down the hill, and towards the bottom I discovered a public restroom, which I didn't try to use but I was glad to know it was there. One could also see the evidence of vernal pools that had long since dried up. There were tall reeds, desiccated ferns, and tons and tons of poison oak!

While staring up my next hill, my legs still felt great and I had plenty of water - but that wouldn't last long. In this short span from the pool on Jacks Rd and Crescent Bluff to the top of Three Sisters, one gains and loses 500 ft in elevation twice in only a mile and a half. This last hill was especially steep, but I still felt up to the task. Half way up, I could feel my heart beating through my chest, my head spinning, and my stomach was in major pain. I could only walk 16-30 steps at a time, then I would have to stop and turn around to rest my calves, wait about ten seconds and then press on again. By the way, it was already noon at this point and the hottest part of the day.

Finally, I reached the top, and as I came around the hill the view opened up and I could see SALINAS! I have never been so happy to see the entire Salinas Valley in my life! For, at this point, I knew my end was in sight. Suddenly, my legs got a second wind and my puppy and I walked down 500 ft until Jacks Rd turned into Oil Well Rd. It was still fairly hot, and there wasn't much of a breeze but I knew soon I would be meeting up with my ride.

As I was going along Oil Well Rd, I saw the marker for Station One Rd, but didn't stop because it went back up hill and the last thing I wanted to do was go back up a hill! To my dismay, according to the map it was the only way to get back to Creekside Terrace, where my ride was waiting for me. Ughhh!

But, up we went. It was more mentally challenging than physically challenging, because I was just ready to be done hiking. It actually doesn't go up very much, especially in comparison to climbing Jacks Rd across Ft Ord, but my ankles were tired, I was hot, and I was about out of water. The trail went behind the fire station, and followed along the creek bed and had very very thick brush that a mountain lion, bob cat, or coyote could easily hide in. So, I started singing silly songs and talking to my dog more. I kept seeing more and more of Hwy 68, but I just couldn't see the Creekside Terrace Entrance. But, it was only another mile and there we were, at our finish line!

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Other highlights of our hike

1) Meeting Viva, a Queensland Mix, and talking to her owner that was a bobcat biologist.

2) Realizing I forgot my trail map at home, which sucked. I eventually found a plastic bag in the sensitive habitat area, which I picked up and then started collecting other trash such as numerous plastic bottles, cliff energy shot wrappers, Styrofoam cups, etc until one piece of trash was actually a map! It was if God blessed me for helping take care of His creation.

3) Having a whiteish hawk fly right past me

4) Having nice ice cold water waiting for me at my ride.

Go out, and get hiking!

Friday, October 19, 2012

Usual Hike through Ft Ord

Yesterday, my father and I hiked through Ft Ord together. This time, the 8th Avenue access was blocked off because FORA has already begun clear cutting trees and they want to prevent protests a la the tree squatters of Berkeley.

So, we basically hiked from Giggling to the end of Hennikers Ranch Rd, and back. We saw a couple bikes, and some interesting new scat. It was black, plopped in the middle of the road, and had a bunch of acorns. Someone told me they thought it might be boar scat.

I am happy to note, that even though it was in the mid 80's while I was hiking I didn't sweat too much and my feet didn't hurt until after mile six. This is much much better than where I started.

Cheers!

Monday, October 15, 2012

A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words

One could write pages and pages about how we need to be more environmentally conscious and produce less waste, but I think this single photograph just about says it all. This bird ate waste plastic washing up on shore or floating out in the ocean, which stopped up it's guts and leached poisonous chemicals into it's body, so it died. Even as the bird decays or is food for scavengers, the plastic remains. Plastic truly never dies, it only photo-degrades into smaller pieces of plastic which sea life mistake for food, so they die.

This whole thing has had me thinking about how my family can produce less plastic, and how I can find re-usable alternatives to cheap "disposable" plastic.

http://myplasticfreelife.com/ has great articles on how to use non-plastic substitutes for many things we use in our lives, which I've found to be very helpful as I start down my road of less plastic living. I'll probably never eliminate all the plastic in my life, nor do I think it is even desirable to do so, and I think even the author of My Plastic Free Life even admits she can't completely eliminate it either. I still want plastic helping to protect my head in a bike helmet, or creating rust-free durable products. It's the single use disposable plastic that I find objectionable. Straws, water bottles, food containers, plastic bags, etc.

Now, back to hiking. I'm planning on going as soon as I get a couple chores done around the house. I'll get back with you all with what all I experienced.

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Pinnacles National Monument - Bear Gulch Cave

My husband and I just returned for a majestic hike through Pinnacles National Monument in Pacines, CA. All I can really say is - WOW! What a glorious testament to the natural beauty of God's creation.

Since it was closer to the cave we wanted to go through, we started at the East Entrances off of HWY 146, which you can get to from HWY 25. We arrived before the park was even officially open at 8:30, but rapped on a window so we could talk a ranger before going up the hill to the caves. At first, finding the trail head was a little confusing, but it turns out you are supposed to walk through a short trail that meanders along a creek next to a picnic area.

Just in the picnic area, we saw three black tail deer chewing on the vegetation near the bear gulch creek. We also saw beautiful scrub jays, woodpeckers, and little song birds. Oh, and a giant soaring bird - either an eagle or a turkey vulture.

After the picnic area we crossed the short road to start heading up towards the caves. My calves were burning a little bit, but not too bad. The first thing I remarked on was how well maintained the trails are in National Parks - it makes the county and state parks I've been through seem like bushwacking in comparison. Someone must take the effort to fill in the erosion gaps along the trail after the heavy rainy season.

The next thing I remarked on was how truly beautiful the talus peaks were as the sun was rising over the ridge line. Reds, oranges, yellows, blacks, all covered in lichens. We saw a couple brave souls out mountain climbing on the cliff faces. I think I want to get into that someday, but I'll have to save that for when I lose some weight first.

We reached the entrance to the caves after only .7 of a mile, and started navigating our way through. It was nice and cool in the caves. The creek wasn't too deep, so I think just having a bit of a splash guard on our shoes would be enough to keep our feet dry. My husband walked the whole trail in fivefingers and was fine. If the water was any higher, I'd really want to have some shoes other than my tennis sneakers.

We saw some neat little frogs along the creek, and did our best to watch out so we didn't accidentally step on one. There is also an underground river and waterfall, which was truly jaw-dropping. Some of the passages we have to almost crawl through on our bellies to be able to navigate, and if I was at all clumsy I'd want to have a helmet to protect my noggin in case I slipped or fell. Definitely glad we had our headlamps.

After we exited the cave, we decided to go towards the left instead of near the resevior. In retrospect, I wish we had gone over to the resevior, but we were running short on time. So, up over the ridgeline we went, and it was spectacular! Coming down the trail we had to cross the creek a few times, and since I am short I really wish that I had a trekking pole with me to help balance me going down. We eventually got back to the fork where we entered the cave and just walked back down to the parking area.

The whole trip was only ~6,000 steps for me and took us 2.5 hrs. I stop very frequently, so it probably took me more time. I am so glad we got there before the hoards of families with their kids showed up so we had the caves to ourselves.

OH, and we got home before kickoff!!!!!!!!

Saturday, October 6, 2012

Fort Ord Dunes State Park

My husband and I just walked along the bike trail at Fort Ord Dunes State Park at sunset. Very beautiful, and Return of the Natives has done a great job re-establishing native plants where the ice plant used to take over the dunes. We walked to the bunkers and the old range tower and then turned around.

The only detraction was that we saw a couple homeless encampments. They were very well camoflauged from both the trail and the nearby highway. They were under the trees on the highway side, but since there is such thick brush AND it was similarly colored, a car zipping along at 55 mph wasn't going to notice them.