"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir

Monday, October 29, 2012

Through Hiking Ft Ord

For months I've been dreaming of through hiking across the Ft Ord National Monument, and today I finally did it!

My dog and I headed out at 8:00 across Parker Flats Rd, which was beautiful just an hour after dawn. Gossamer spider webs collected dew which glimmered in the morning sun. The hills were alive with the sound of rustling deer, calling quail, and soaring hawks.

Then we turned down Eucalyptus Rd, and followed that through several cattle gates until it became Jacks Rd out past Barlow Canyon. We finally came across a pool out in Ft Ord, that looked pretty mucky since it was mostly dried up. There were still a few mallards and other species of fowl, but we didn't spot any egrets or herons.

Then, came our first major hill. It wasn't too bad, but we stopped half way up so Maggie could finally get some ice water, and I could have a cool drink. It was about 11:30, and we had already covered about five miles in 3.5 hrs. There were plenty of game trails that ran from the tops of the mountains down to the pool, since I think this is their only reliable water source.

After about ten minutes, we decided to press onward up the hill, until finally we came to the top near Pilaricitos Ridge was off to the  northwest, and Lookout Ridge was off to southeast. From there, we could see Mt Toro, ahead of us, and the ocean behind us, and a small canyon in front of us until we had to climb our next hill. At this point, I felt truly on top of the world and wasn't tired at all.

We took off down the hill, and towards the bottom I discovered a public restroom, which I didn't try to use but I was glad to know it was there. One could also see the evidence of vernal pools that had long since dried up. There were tall reeds, desiccated ferns, and tons and tons of poison oak!

While staring up my next hill, my legs still felt great and I had plenty of water - but that wouldn't last long. In this short span from the pool on Jacks Rd and Crescent Bluff to the top of Three Sisters, one gains and loses 500 ft in elevation twice in only a mile and a half. This last hill was especially steep, but I still felt up to the task. Half way up, I could feel my heart beating through my chest, my head spinning, and my stomach was in major pain. I could only walk 16-30 steps at a time, then I would have to stop and turn around to rest my calves, wait about ten seconds and then press on again. By the way, it was already noon at this point and the hottest part of the day.

Finally, I reached the top, and as I came around the hill the view opened up and I could see SALINAS! I have never been so happy to see the entire Salinas Valley in my life! For, at this point, I knew my end was in sight. Suddenly, my legs got a second wind and my puppy and I walked down 500 ft until Jacks Rd turned into Oil Well Rd. It was still fairly hot, and there wasn't much of a breeze but I knew soon I would be meeting up with my ride.

As I was going along Oil Well Rd, I saw the marker for Station One Rd, but didn't stop because it went back up hill and the last thing I wanted to do was go back up a hill! To my dismay, according to the map it was the only way to get back to Creekside Terrace, where my ride was waiting for me. Ughhh!

But, up we went. It was more mentally challenging than physically challenging, because I was just ready to be done hiking. It actually doesn't go up very much, especially in comparison to climbing Jacks Rd across Ft Ord, but my ankles were tired, I was hot, and I was about out of water. The trail went behind the fire station, and followed along the creek bed and had very very thick brush that a mountain lion, bob cat, or coyote could easily hide in. So, I started singing silly songs and talking to my dog more. I kept seeing more and more of Hwy 68, but I just couldn't see the Creekside Terrace Entrance. But, it was only another mile and there we were, at our finish line!

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Other highlights of our hike

1) Meeting Viva, a Queensland Mix, and talking to her owner that was a bobcat biologist.

2) Realizing I forgot my trail map at home, which sucked. I eventually found a plastic bag in the sensitive habitat area, which I picked up and then started collecting other trash such as numerous plastic bottles, cliff energy shot wrappers, Styrofoam cups, etc until one piece of trash was actually a map! It was if God blessed me for helping take care of His creation.

3) Having a whiteish hawk fly right past me

4) Having nice ice cold water waiting for me at my ride.

Go out, and get hiking!

Friday, October 19, 2012

Usual Hike through Ft Ord

Yesterday, my father and I hiked through Ft Ord together. This time, the 8th Avenue access was blocked off because FORA has already begun clear cutting trees and they want to prevent protests a la the tree squatters of Berkeley.

So, we basically hiked from Giggling to the end of Hennikers Ranch Rd, and back. We saw a couple bikes, and some interesting new scat. It was black, plopped in the middle of the road, and had a bunch of acorns. Someone told me they thought it might be boar scat.

I am happy to note, that even though it was in the mid 80's while I was hiking I didn't sweat too much and my feet didn't hurt until after mile six. This is much much better than where I started.

Cheers!

Monday, October 15, 2012

A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words

One could write pages and pages about how we need to be more environmentally conscious and produce less waste, but I think this single photograph just about says it all. This bird ate waste plastic washing up on shore or floating out in the ocean, which stopped up it's guts and leached poisonous chemicals into it's body, so it died. Even as the bird decays or is food for scavengers, the plastic remains. Plastic truly never dies, it only photo-degrades into smaller pieces of plastic which sea life mistake for food, so they die.

This whole thing has had me thinking about how my family can produce less plastic, and how I can find re-usable alternatives to cheap "disposable" plastic.

http://myplasticfreelife.com/ has great articles on how to use non-plastic substitutes for many things we use in our lives, which I've found to be very helpful as I start down my road of less plastic living. I'll probably never eliminate all the plastic in my life, nor do I think it is even desirable to do so, and I think even the author of My Plastic Free Life even admits she can't completely eliminate it either. I still want plastic helping to protect my head in a bike helmet, or creating rust-free durable products. It's the single use disposable plastic that I find objectionable. Straws, water bottles, food containers, plastic bags, etc.

Now, back to hiking. I'm planning on going as soon as I get a couple chores done around the house. I'll get back with you all with what all I experienced.

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Pinnacles National Monument - Bear Gulch Cave

My husband and I just returned for a majestic hike through Pinnacles National Monument in Pacines, CA. All I can really say is - WOW! What a glorious testament to the natural beauty of God's creation.

Since it was closer to the cave we wanted to go through, we started at the East Entrances off of HWY 146, which you can get to from HWY 25. We arrived before the park was even officially open at 8:30, but rapped on a window so we could talk a ranger before going up the hill to the caves. At first, finding the trail head was a little confusing, but it turns out you are supposed to walk through a short trail that meanders along a creek next to a picnic area.

Just in the picnic area, we saw three black tail deer chewing on the vegetation near the bear gulch creek. We also saw beautiful scrub jays, woodpeckers, and little song birds. Oh, and a giant soaring bird - either an eagle or a turkey vulture.

After the picnic area we crossed the short road to start heading up towards the caves. My calves were burning a little bit, but not too bad. The first thing I remarked on was how well maintained the trails are in National Parks - it makes the county and state parks I've been through seem like bushwacking in comparison. Someone must take the effort to fill in the erosion gaps along the trail after the heavy rainy season.

The next thing I remarked on was how truly beautiful the talus peaks were as the sun was rising over the ridge line. Reds, oranges, yellows, blacks, all covered in lichens. We saw a couple brave souls out mountain climbing on the cliff faces. I think I want to get into that someday, but I'll have to save that for when I lose some weight first.

We reached the entrance to the caves after only .7 of a mile, and started navigating our way through. It was nice and cool in the caves. The creek wasn't too deep, so I think just having a bit of a splash guard on our shoes would be enough to keep our feet dry. My husband walked the whole trail in fivefingers and was fine. If the water was any higher, I'd really want to have some shoes other than my tennis sneakers.

We saw some neat little frogs along the creek, and did our best to watch out so we didn't accidentally step on one. There is also an underground river and waterfall, which was truly jaw-dropping. Some of the passages we have to almost crawl through on our bellies to be able to navigate, and if I was at all clumsy I'd want to have a helmet to protect my noggin in case I slipped or fell. Definitely glad we had our headlamps.

After we exited the cave, we decided to go towards the left instead of near the resevior. In retrospect, I wish we had gone over to the resevior, but we were running short on time. So, up over the ridgeline we went, and it was spectacular! Coming down the trail we had to cross the creek a few times, and since I am short I really wish that I had a trekking pole with me to help balance me going down. We eventually got back to the fork where we entered the cave and just walked back down to the parking area.

The whole trip was only ~6,000 steps for me and took us 2.5 hrs. I stop very frequently, so it probably took me more time. I am so glad we got there before the hoards of families with their kids showed up so we had the caves to ourselves.

OH, and we got home before kickoff!!!!!!!!

Saturday, October 6, 2012

Fort Ord Dunes State Park

My husband and I just walked along the bike trail at Fort Ord Dunes State Park at sunset. Very beautiful, and Return of the Natives has done a great job re-establishing native plants where the ice plant used to take over the dunes. We walked to the bunkers and the old range tower and then turned around.

The only detraction was that we saw a couple homeless encampments. They were very well camoflauged from both the trail and the nearby highway. They were under the trees on the highway side, but since there is such thick brush AND it was similarly colored, a car zipping along at 55 mph wasn't going to notice them.

Toro Park - Cave Run Trail

My trusty dog, husband, and I just returned from an adventure trying to find the Cave Run Trail at Toro Park. First of all, the trail is NOT marked, so when we initially walked passed it I thought it was just a trail from some yahoos out bushwhacking (which is against the rules) and not a designated trail.

We arrived at the parking lot just outside Toro Park around 8:45ish possibly as late as 9:00 and did our usual confused meander looking for a trail head. REI and Toro Park were holding a special event for kids to learn mountain bikers. My puppy for some reason thinks that she must chase anything on wheels, no matter how many times we tell her to "leave it."

The trail up to the Caves begins at the East Ridge Trail trail head, near the Buckeye Picnic area. Conveniently there are some bathrooms near the trail head and a couple of swing sets etc. Up the trail we went, and we kept climbing and climbing and climbing until we eventually asked another hiker if she came up this way often, and if she knew where this trail head was. She gave a bunch of meaningless information, and ultimately was wrong ... but at least she was nice enough to chat with us.

Since it was 80+ degrees out and I didn't feel like climbing up East Ridge Trail to East Toyon Ridge or any of that, we decided to just turn around in failure. We tried walking down some trails that went through a couple of brush piles, but most of them led to look outs over the cliffs.

 Eventually, we found something that looked like a more substantial trail and had a bunch more foot prints! AHA! This must be it! Even though we probably passed it on the way up, it is only 50 -100 feet from the trailhead itself.

It was a heavily eroded trail, with a steep-ish embankment and loose dirt, which I wasn't prepared for since I was only in sneakers. After slipping and sliding,  I really really really wished I had better traction on my shoes -  but I survived. The trail itself was in no way 1.2 miles long like the Toro Park trail map might lead you to believe. Instead, it was maybe .25 miles at the very most. We arrived at the first cave, and it was covered in graffiti and had tons of litter. We stopped to take some pictures, saw some quail hiding in the bushes. One of the caves reaked of urine. Perhaps some bums like to camp there, who knows. My husband said there was something of a "goat trail" that might of kept going, but it was going to require better shoes than what we had on, and we didn't feel like accidentally sliding down the hill or twisting an ankle. So, we turned around.

The entire hike took us an hour, maybe and hour and a half and we spent most of that just being lost and confused about where the trail actually was. I left a very very small dolomite rock cairn at the base of the trail for the next shmuck like me who visits the park and wants to check it out.

Let me know if you have ever been out there. If I ever go again, I am going to have better shoes and bring my trekking poles with me.


Friday, October 5, 2012

Parker Flats Loop

I haven't been out for a while because I have been fighting off a cold, and have had problems with extreme foot pain. Just sharp shooting pain up my heel, for no apparent reason. But, I felt that I was starting to get into a couch potato rut and I just needed to push myself to get out again.

So, yesterday I went for a long walk through the Parker Flats area of the former Ft Ord.


I love walking through the there because of all the beautiful trees, song birds, bees, and butterflies. I saw a particularly unusual butterfly near the blocked off gate on Watkins Gate Rd near East Garrison. I grew up here in Monterey County, and I have never ever seen a butterfly like this before. It was mostly black, with white dots in a v-pattern and then two larger orange dots near the tips of it's wings. My guess is that the butterfly was 3-3.5'' across, definitely larger than a Monarch.

I didn't see as much evidence of mammals while I was walking through the area yesterday, although I was walking during the heat of the day. Some deer tracks here and there, and I only found coyote and bobcat scat near 8th Avenue.

Oh, and there is a HUGE eagle or hawk nest between 200-500 meters in on the north side of Gigling. I'll have to post some pictures. It's in an half dead tree, and I saw some white thing crawl out of it. Perhaps it was a hawks lunch that wasn't quite dead or something and then scurried off. I could be wrong, and curious to hear what other people think it is.

If you get a chance to take the Watkin's Gate Spur near Parker Flats, check out the HUGE old oak tree just a few feet from the trail head from Watkins Gate going towards the spur. I mostly took the Spur yesterday because my feet hurt so bad and was looking to shorten my route a bit.

All in all, I walked about 7 miles in around 4 hrs with about 650 ft in ascent and descent. It's not bad for a beginner, but my muscles around my knees feel tight.

I'll post some pictures later.

Route:

Start at Gigling and Eigth Ave. Walked down Gigling to Watkins Gate Rd - until blocked off - past Addington Rd. Turn around and walked back to intersection of Watkins Gate and Gigling, turned down Watkins Gate until the Watkings Gate Spur, walked down Watkins Gate Spur until intersection with Parker Flats, turned down Parker Flats towards Eigth Ave. Walked down Eight Ave utnil I was back at Gigling and Eigth.

Monday, October 1, 2012

Heat Wave

I would say that we are having an unseasonable heat wave, but Monterey County is known for its "indian summers." True to form, the valley is only in the high 70's today and is cooling off, so it is not sucking cold air from off the ocean to cool it down. Consequently, it is "unusually" warm on the coasts. Meaning, it was in the 80's and 90's today. My little garden thermometer read over 90 degrees at 8:45 this morning, but I think it must be off - even for this time of year.

I woke up feeling like I am coming down with a cold this morning, but was going to go hiking anyway. I took one step outside, and changed my mind. There wasn't much wind so it was especially uncomfortable. It is so hot, the hawks and eagles are taking a break from flying. The wild turkeys were not out either. As they say, only mad dogs and englishmen ride at noon - I am neither so I'm taking a siesta.

We're supposed to be having this heat wave until Wednesday, which is a bummer because I can't wait to get out and take a hike. But not until it cools way off. Ugggghhhh!

Maybe it would be a good week for a night hike? I'll let you know if I go on one.